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Alsek River Expedition by Raft
World's
Largest Bio Preserve and Dramatic Alpine
Splendour
Renowned for large rapids, dramatic mountain
valleys and glaciers, the Alsek is a wilderness
treasure. The Alsek is extraordinarily different
from the Tatshenshini which is only "one valley
over". Glaciers, icebergs, wildlife, canyons and
a helicopter portage around Turnback Canyon add
to the adventure.
Rendezvous point: Whitehorse Yukon
Route Description: Coast Range River -
Serpentine Creek, Kluane National Park, Yukon to
Dry Bay, Alaska, 11 river days: 255 km (160
miles) with an approximate elevation drop of 555
m (approx. 1,800 ft). Region: Yukon, BC, Alaska
Craft Description: Raft.
Photo Credit: Bruce Kirby
Prerequisite:
Our expedition rafts accommodate
beginners. Experienced paddlers and beginners
are welcome to participate by paddling. The
guides are able to navigate by oars, so paddling
is optional most of the time.
The following is a tentative itinerary
and has been designed with much thought to
capitalize on the most scenic and exciting parts
of the river, while making time on other
sections. Your guides will adjust the schedule
to make the best use of river and weather
conditions.
Day 1:
This is the arrival day and is the first day
listed for your trip. Although it is not a river
day, we list it as Day 1 to be consistent with
our other scheduled trips. The scheduled flights
arrive in Whitehorse throughout the day. Be sure
you arrive by 6 p.m. The guides will be out of
town at the river, rigging the rafts. Please
make your way to your hotel and plan to
rendezvous with your guides in the lobby of the
Yukon Inn at 8 p.m. for an orientation meeting.
There will be a chance for last-minute questions
concerning clothing, gear, packing and other
details. Whitehorse is a great place to spend a
few extra days and there are local day hikes,
goldpanning float trips through Miles Canyon and
4X4 outings in the region.
Day 2: We will meet in the hotel lobby at 8 am
following breakfast (not covered) and we will
embark on the Alaska Highway. Along the way we
will visit the Kluane National Park Interpretive
Centre. (The bakery across the road is legendary
for its goodies so keep your wallet handy.) We
then drive a short distance to the Dezadeash
River bridge, where the guides have already
rigged the rafts and prepared a lunch.
With time to make final adjustments to your
pack, the guides will introduce you to the finer
points of the day's journey. Here on the edge of
Kluane National Park you embark on a gentle
piece of river, winding through the broad
valley, as it flows into Alsek Pass. This region
can be prone to strong upstream winds so camp
location will be determined by the prevailing
conditions. Keen eyes may spot Dall sheep and
mountain goats grazing on the slopes.
Days 3 and 4:
Embarking early in the morning we will find that
the river is very slow moving for the first few
miles, but after the confluence with the swift
Kaskawulsh River, the resulting swift moving
river is named Alsek. A hike from the river
yields a dramatic view and the evidence of
recently spectacular historic geological events
in the valley. In the late half of the 1800's
the Alsek was entirely bridged by a sudden
movement of the Lowell glacier. The resulting
lake backed up over an area of hundreds of
square miles, even flooding the current townsite
of Haines Junction. The ice dam remained for a
few years until it was finally broached by the
river and in a cataclysmic event the valley
below was flushed by a flow of gargantuan
proportion. Native history tells of coastal
villages that were decimated by the floodwaters.
When we travel the river today we see scarring
and other effluvial remains that tell the story
of the monstrous hydrological event. If we watch
the shoreline closely we may be rewarded with
views of grizzlies and camp will afford a
spectacular view of the valley.
Days 5 and 6: The river continues to gain volume and speed and
brings us to another visual treat. Camp will be
on Lowell lake where we will see Lowell Glacier
- the first of the many glaciers that come right
down to the river. The face of the glacier
actively "calves" huge bergs of ice into the
lake with thunderous roars. Camping here for two
nights we take the opportunity to hike up Goat
Heard Mountain for panoramic views of the ice
fields including some of the tallest peaks of
the St Elias Range - Kennedy, Alverstone and
Hubbard. Of course mountain goats, Dall sheep
and other flora and fauna vie for our attention.
Days 7 and 8: After crossing Lowell Lake the mountains crowd
inward leaving narrow canyons. The water rushes
through with several distinct rapids and an ever
changing vista. There is never a dull moment for
the next few days and in several spots we will
stop to scout rapids and some may elect to walk
around while the guides run the rafts through.
As we approach Turnback Canyon we are confronted
by the Tweedsmuir, the largest of all the
glaciers on the trip. Acting like a huge funnel,
it forces the river into a narrow confine
crowding it into a deep gorge which is the
actual canyon. Downstream the river plunges
through a ten mile series of horrendous rapids.
Though it has been kayaked several times, it is
still considered to be unsafe for rafts. Camp is
above Turnback Canyon, at the foot of the
glacier.
Days 9 and 10: The never ending drama of the trip continues to
unfold as a helicopter arrives at our camp to
begin ferrying us, and our equipment around
Turnback canyon. On the short flight we are
afforded a great view of the area and the famous
rapids that few have seen. On the other side of
the Canyon we will inflate and re- rig the boats
and continue downstream a distance. The
following day we pass the Vern Ritchie and
Battle Glaciers, and camp at the confluence of
the Tatshenshini and Alsek Rivers. At this point
the two rivers swell to stretch nearly three
miles wide, surging through braided channels
that criss-cross the valley. The resulting union
bears the name Alsek River and soon enters the
State of Alaska and Glacier Bay National Park.
Day 11:
On a giant bend that can be seen from space, we
are encircled by peaks in a stunning
amphitheater of glacial ice and rock. From this
point we view the crystal blue hues of Walker
Glacier, a place where we actually hike on the
surface of this ancient ice and experience the
unique environment of deep crevasses and jagged
seracs and ice falls. Camp will be downstream in
a campsite surrounded by lush wild flowers.
Day 12:
Floating downstream we have a view of more than
20 glaciers as we make our way down to the place
where the Alsek and Grand Plateau Glaciers come
together at the river to form an eight mile wide
face of ice. We camp at Alsek Lake which was
formed by the gouging action of the glaciers
resulting in the largest lake found anywhere in
Glacier Bay Park. The only thing breaking the
mystical spell of the iceberg filled lake with
the mountain backdrop is the frequent explosive
crescendos of calving glaciers spawning multi
ton icebergs. Overseeing the phenomenon is Mt.
Fairweather whose ice clad summit soars over
15,000 feet above our camp. Enjoying and
exploring the lake is a delight to all of the
senses.
Day 13:
The final leg of our memorable trip is from
Alsek Lake to Dry Bay on the Gulf of Alaska. At
the tiny commercial fishing enclave we are met
by small charter planes for the flight back to
Whitehorse with a plane load of memories. The
Alsek now passes through a transition from the
tallest peaks on the continent to the broad flat
Pacific coastline. In this valley we have a
vertical distance of over 15,000 feet between us
and the highest peaks, an overall elevation
difference greater than that of the Himalayas.
In all but the worst weather, the aircraft will
pick us up and fly us back through the Coast and
St. Elias ranges to Whitehorse. Following
showers, the group may want to gather at a local
eating establishment (not included). Whitehorse
is a lively town and it will not be difficult to
find a way to enjoy the evening!
Day 14:
After goodbyes and a last look around
Whitehorse, it is departure time.
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